Samurai Sword Parts and Their Definitions

What Are The Parts of a Samurai Sword?

I've noticed that there are a ton of different names and variations for the parts of a samurai sword. Two things I can tell you for sure; it depends on the time period in which it was made, and the method used to make the sword.

This is my best explanation of the parts of a Samurai Sword. If you would like to add anything, please do.

1) Kissaki (Point) - This is the fan shaped cutting tip.

2) Yokote (Point Line) - Line differentiating the kissaki from the rest of the blade.

3) Yakiba (Hard Section) - Tempered edge of the blade.

4) Hamon (Temper Line) - Pattern along the cutting edge produced during the hardening process.

5) Ji (Softer Section) - Area between the ha and shinogi.

6) Shinogi (Ridge Line) - Ridge along the side of the blade between the edge and the mune.

7) Shinogi-ji (Flat Section) - Flat surface between the shinogi line and the mune.

8) Mune (Back) - Back edge of the blade.

9) Nagasa (Blade Length) - Measured from the notch at the back of the blade marking the top of the tang to the tip of the kissaki.

10) Nakago (Tang) - The tang is the part of the blade inserted into the handle. Full Tang means this runs through the entire length of the handle.

11) Mei (Signature) - Makers mark; usually an inscription in the tang.

12) Habaki (Ferrule) - Metal collar around the blade just below the guard.

13) Tsuba (Guard) - Guard just above the handle meant to protect the hands.

14) Seppa (Spacers) - Spacers placed both above and below the tsuba.

15) Fuchi (Sleeve) - Metal sleeve and the end of the hilt.

16) Mekugi (Peg) - Peg used to secure the blade in the handle.

17) Menuki (Ornament) - Decorative metal fitting that is placed under the hilt wrappings.

18) Tsuka (Handle) - Where you grip the sword.

19) Kashira (Pommel) - End of the hilt.

20) Kojiri (End Cap) - Metal cap at the end of the scabbard.

21) Saya (Scabbard) - Houses the sword.

22) Sageo (Cord) - Cord used when carrying sword.

23) Kurikata (Knob) - Used in conjunction with sageo for carrying.

24 Koiguchi (Scabbard Mouth) - Opening at the end of the scabbard where the sword is inserted.

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Basic Samurai Sword Cuts

Samurai Sword Cutting Techniques

Just as a forewarning before I have to explain myself too much: Basically each school will teach different fundamental body positions, and grips as well as have different variations of the cutting angles. This is only a brief explanation of a shared concept most sword styles have in common.                                                                       
Good

Wrist is at a slight angle allowing
stronger grip with less effort.
This lines the blade up with the arm.

Bad

Wrist is almost straight on with sword
Impact will be transferred to the wrists.
Grip is weakened this way.

Grip: When gripping a samurai sword (left over right or right over left does not matter) always be sure that you line you wrists up behind the blade. This will allow you to absorb the backlash once you encounter resistance and quickly recover for another strike. This will not be comfortable at first.(I look at this like a golf swing. It seems the more uncomfortable I am holding the club the better I do.) If your wrists are not lined up behind the blade it may feel fine swinging the sword in the air, but chances are that when you encounter a target you will either lose control of the weapon or cause injury to your wrist. Improper grip will also cause you to fatigue sooner.

Cutting Strokes - Always aim a few inches farther through your target when cutting as this will add significantly more force to the blow. Resulting in more damage to the target.

Do - Abdomen Cut: Facing your opponent you cut from left to right or right to left across the abdomen just above the hips. The goal of this cut is to hit the soft spot not bone. On an armored individual the cut has to be more precise because it needs to get in between the hip guard and breastplate.

Kote - Wrist Cut: This cut will either disable your opponent or sever their hand. This is a straight down cut while you are facing each other and your opponent is holding a sword. This applies the same to both armored and unarmored as a strong swing will cut through the soft leather covering the wrist.

Ski - Straight Thrust: This is not listed on the diagram because there are multiple places in which the blow may land. Usually delivered with both hands this strike is normally aimed at the eyes, throat, rib cage, or belly. Normally by thrusting in an pushing out the side in a single fluid motion. On an armored opponent you will be limited to only really two targets. The eyes and throat as armor covers the rest.


Kesa Giri - Monk's Robe Cut: This is a diagonal cut beginning at the top of the shoulder and ending at the opposite hip. The cut is different for an armored opponent because the shoulder will be protected. Basically you will be aiming for the gap between the shoulder and neck. That would be the vulnerable spot.

Kiriage - Upward Cut: This is the upward version of the Monk's Robe Cut and works the same for an unarmored opponent. However in an armored opponent you will need to aim for the armpit and follow through to the neck. There is much less margin for error in an armored target.

Men - Straight Down Head Cut: This is straight down to the top of the skull. Your intent when practicing this blow should be to follow through at least to the groin (though you will never get that far) it will increase the power of the cut greatly. On an armored opponent it is possible to break through the helmet, but unlikely.

Have fun and be careful. That's what it's all about.