Thursday, December 13, 2012

Samurai Sword Parts and Their Definitions

What Are The Parts of a Samurai Sword?


I've noticed that there are a ton of different names and variations for the parts of a samurai sword. Two things I can tell you for sure; it depends on the time period in which it was made, and the method used to make the sword.
This is my best explanation of the parts of a Samurai Sword. If you would like to add anything, please do.

1) Kissaki (Point) - This is the fan shaped cutting tip.

2) Yokote (Point Line) - Line differentiating the kissaki from the rest of the blade.

3) Yakiba (Hard Section) - Tempered edge of the blade.

4) Hamon (Temper Line) - Pattern along the cutting edge produced during the hardening process.

5) Ji (Softer Section) - Area between the ha and shinogi.

6) Shinogi (Ridge Line) - Ridge along the side of the blade between the edge and the mune.

7) Shinogi-ji (Flat Section) - Flat surface between the shinogi line and the mune.

8) Mune (Back) - Back edge of the blade.

9) Nagasa (Blade Length) - Measured from the notch at the back of the blade marking the top of the tang to the tip of the kissaki.

10) Nakago (Tang) - The tang is the part of the blade inserted into the handle. Full Tang means this runs through the entire length of the handle.

11) Mei (Signature) - Makers mark; usually an inscription in the tang.

12) Habaki (Ferrule) - Metal collar around the blade just below the guard.

13) Tsuba (Guard) - Guard just above the handle meant to protect the hands.

14) Seppa (Spacers) - Spacers placed both above and below the tsuba.

15) Fuchi (Sleeve) - Metal sleeve and the end of the hilt.

16) Mekugi (Peg) - Peg used to secure the blade in the handle.

17) Menuki (Ornament) - Decorative metal fitting that is placed under the hilt wrappings.

18) Tsuka (Handle) - Where you grip the sword.

19) Kashira (Pommel) - End of the hilt.

20) Kojiri (End Cap) - Metal cap at the end of the scabbard.

21) Saya (Scabbard) - Houses the sword.

22) Sageo (Cord) - Cord used when carrying sword.

23) Kurikata (Knob) - Used in conjunction with sageo for carrying.

24 Koiguchi (Scabbard Mouth) - Opening at the end of the scabbard where the sword is inserted.

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Monday, December 10, 2012

Basic Samurai Sword Cuts

Samurai Sword Cutting Techniques

Just as a forewarning before I have to explain myself too much: Basically each school will teach different fundamental body positions, and grips as well as have different variations of the cutting angles. This is only a brief explanation of a shared concept most sword styles have in common.                                                                       
Good

Wrist is at a slight angle allowing
stronger grip with less effort.
This lines the blade up with the arm.



Bad

Wrist is almost straight on with sword
Impact will be transferred to the wrists.
Grip is weakened this way.

Grip: When gripping a samurai sword (left over right or right over left does not matter) always be sure that you line you wrists up behind the blade. This will allow you to absorb the backlash once you encounter resistance and quickly recover for another strike. This will not be comfortable at first.(I look at this like a golf swing. It seems the more uncomfortable I am holding the club the better I do.) If your wrists are not lined up behind the blade it may feel fine swinging the sword in the air, but chances are that when you encounter a target you will either lose control of the weapon or cause injury to your wrist. Improper grip will also cause you to fatigue sooner.

Unarmored

Cutting Strokes - Always aim a few inches farther through your target when cutting as this will add significantly more force to the blow. Resulting in more damage to the target.

Do - Abdomen Cut: Facing your opponent you cut from left to right or right to left across the abdomen just above the hips. The goal of this cut is to hit the soft spot not bone. On an armored individual the cut has to be more precise because it needs to get in between the hip guard and breastplate.

Kote - Wrist Cut: This cut will either disable your opponent or sever their hand. This is a straight down cut while you are facing each other and your opponent is holding a sword. This applies the same to both armored and unarmored as a strong swing will cut through the soft leather covering the wrist.

Ski - Straight Thrust: This is not listed on the diagram because there are multiple places in which the blow may land. Usually delivered with both hands this strike is normally aimed at the eyes, throat, rib cage, or belly. Normally by thrusting in an pushing out the side in a single fluid motion. On an armored opponent you will be limited to only really two targets. The eyes and throat as armor covers the rest.
Armored

Kesa Giri - Monk's Robe Cut: This is a diagonal cut beginning at the top of the shoulder and ending at the opposite hip. The cut is different for an armored opponent because the shoulder will be protected. Basically you will be aiming for the gap between the shoulder and neck. That would be the vulnerable spot.

Kiriage - Upward Cut: This is the upward version of the Monk's Robe Cut and works the same for an unarmored opponent. However in an armored opponent you will need to aim for the armpit and follow through to the neck. There is much less margin for error in an armored target.

Men - Straight Down Head Cut: This is straight down to the top of the skull. Your intent when practicing this blow should be to follow through at least to the groin (though you will never get that far) it will increase the power of the cut greatly. On an armored opponent it is possible to break through the helmet, but unlikely.

Have fun and be careful. That's what it's all about.

Saturday, November 10, 2012

"Ninja Swords" History or Hollywood?



Ninja - The Sword

Ninja Drawing    The Ninja "shinobi" has been shown in movies, games, and even museums as carrying a straight sword that somewhat resemble  katana swords. However, historic evidence may not be able to fully prove that there was even a specific type of sword carried by these stealthy assassins.
   


Ninja swords have been typically depicted as having a straight blade and a square guard, and normally are shorter than the katana. This is the sword that has been portrayed in countless movies, on television, and even in books. History shows us that there is really no physical evidence for these legendary swords said to have been used by the ninja. Many replicas of this weapon still have been shown, and are being displayed even today in Japan in the Koka Ninja Village and Iga-Ryu Ninja museums in Japan. Due to the lack of any real known physical evidence of this weapons existence from the time period when the ninja emerged, the history of this weapon has only been actually recorded from the 20th century on.
   

Ninjitsu - The Ninja Martial Art

    For the most part the techniques of using a ninja sword in martial context are also speculative at best. Mostly ninja swords have been shown in movies and on stage using the technique, that for the most part has been almost mirror-like to that of the "katana style".

    Realistically we may never know if the sword we accept today as the ninja sword is actually the same as what that the ninja used back in the middle ages.
    What do you think?
 Is the Ninja Sword history or hollywood?

Thursday, October 25, 2012

How are Authentic Samurai Swords Made?


How Japanese Swords are forged


 Authentic Japanese swords are made from specialized Japanese steel which consist of combinations of hard, high carbon content steel and tough low carbon content steel. There are qualities in both types of steel, both good and bad. High-carbon content steel is harder and able to hold a much sharper edge than low-carbon steel, but it is brittle and can break in combat. Low carbon content steel will allow the blade to be more malleable, making it possible to absorb impacts without breaking but this lower carbon content steel will become blunt in the process.
The blacksmiths who forge authentic samurai swords take advantage of the best attributes of both of these kinds of steel. The blacksmith begins by folding and welding pieces of both types of steel several times in order to work out most of the impurities. The high carbon content steel is then formed into a U-shape and a piece of low carbon soft steel is placed in its center. The resulting block of steel is then hammered, or “drawn out” to form a rough blank that will soon be a samurai sword.
At this point it may have only a slight curvature or none at all. The curvature of a samurai sword is attained by a process of heating and quenching the sword in water or oil. In this process the sword maker coats the blade with several layers of moist clay slurry which is a recipe that is unique to each sword maker, but in general this this composition can include: clay, water, (sometimes) ash, grinding stone powder and/or rust. The blacksmith will coat the edge of the blade with a thinner clay layer than the sides and spine. After this the sword is heated and then quenched in water, or oil. The clay functions as heat insulation so that only the edge of the blade will be hardened with quenching. This also causes the blade to form a slight curve due to the reduced strain along the spine.

 The quenching process also creates the distinct wavy line down the center of the blade. This is called the “hamon” which can only be seen after the sword has been polished. The hamon is where most say the beauty is to be found in samurai swords. Each hamon is unique to the sword’s maker and serves as the forger's signature.
After the sword blade is forged it will then sent to be polished. The polishing of samurai swords can take anywhere between one and three weeks. The sword polisher will use finer and finer grain polishing stones until the sword blade has a mirror finish. This process is called glazing. This will make the blade razor sharp and reduce drag, making it much easier to cut with. The curvature of a samurai swords blade also adds to its cutting force.

If I've missed anything please let me know. You can follow this blog and receive more information on Samurai Swords as it's posted.
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Sunday, October 21, 2012

What Makes a Katana Sword a Katana? Pt2


What Are Katana Swords?

   
        Katana swords are generally defined standard sized, moderately curved Japanese swords with a blade length greater than 60 cm, or 23 1/2 in. Katana swords are also characterized by their distinctive appearance, attributes which include: a curved, thin, single-edged blade with a circular or square guard, and a long grip, made to accommodate two hands. Katana swords have been renowned throughout their history for their beauty, sharpness, and strength.
        Katana swords were often paired with a similar smaller companion swords, such as a wakizashi or tanto, an even smaller similarly shaped sword (dagger). The pairing of a katana with a smaller sword is known as the daisho. The daisho could only be worn by samurai warriors as it represented their social power and personal honor.

        With a few exceptions, katana swords and the previous sword, the tachi can be distinguished from each other, only if signed,  by the location of the signature on the tang. In general, the signature (mei) should be carved into the side of the nakago, which would face outward when the sword was worn. Since a tachi was worn with the cutting edge down, and the katana was worn with the cutting edge up the signatures would have been on opposite sides.
        The rise in the popularity of katana swords by samurai warriors is speculated to have been due to the changing nature of close-combat warfare. The quicker draw of katana swords was well suited to combat where victory depended heavily on response times. Katana Swords further promoted this by being worn thrust through a belt-like sash (obi) with the sharpened edge facing up. Ideally samurai swords could be drawn and strike the enemy in a single lightning speed motion. Previous to the katana swords style, the curved swords had been worn with the edge of the blade facing down, suspended from a belt.
Which is your favorite Samurai Sword?        WakizashiKatanaTanto?
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Saturday, October 20, 2012

What Makes a Katana Sword a Katana?



Katana Swords

What are Katana Swords?   



 Over the next few blog posts I will explain most of what makes a Katana Sword a Katana.  
      
        
  Katana Swords are by and far the most sought after of the samurai swords today. The history of the katana is long, and has been debated for many years as to it's accuracy. There are mostly only general dates and times associated with the rise of katana swords as a weapon of the samurai warrior. There is one absolute fact however, and that is;  Katana Swords became the staple chioce of weapon for the samurai.
      
  The first use of the word “katana” to describe a long sword that was different than a tachi was found sometime in the 12th century. These were references to uchigatana and tsubagatana and seemed to indicate a different style of sword. Very possibly a less costly sword meant for warriors of a lower caste, or rank. Sometime around the year 1400, long swords signed with the Katana signature began to be made. This was in response to Samurai wearing their swords in what is now called “the Katana Style” (cutting edge up). Until then Japanese swords were traditionally worn with the signature facing away from the wearer. When the sword was worn in the style of a Katana, cutting edge up, the tachi’s insignia was facing the wrong way. Swordsmiths started signing their swords with a katana signature, this showing that some samurai  swords of that time period had begun to be worn in a different manner.

To Be Continued......follow my blog for the rest of the story.

What's your opinion? What do you think it is that makes the katana the sword of choice?


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